In 2008 my main goal was to go surfing.. I had spent a good deal of 2007 getting fit in preparation(I lost 60lbs). On Jan 2nd I called SurfDiva - a surf school in La Jolla, California and booked a place in a week long course. I was shaking when I put down the phone, I was scared. It was a good scared, but it was fear.
I expected a lot from the trip, I had wanted to learn to surf for so long.. as long as I can remember - I had no idea why I wanted to learn, what the universe was going to share with me as I caught my first wave, but I half expected that the heavens would open, and God would point his finger down and reveal the secret to life. I had a lot riding on that wave.
You'll have to ask me the whole story one day.. it involves a wipe-out, lots of painkillers, lots of sand-eating, a lesson learned, and a shark.. but none of those are the point today.
I wasn't the most natural surfer in the water - actually I was clumsy and awkward and hurt all over... but there was a moment or two, a few seconds.... when...
It's hard to explain... but I'll do my best here....
When you are riding a wave (even for a nano-second) everything in the universe is working together. You are, for that second, absolutely in-tune with the world, with nature, with God, the Universe, with yourself. There is no distinction between you and that wave, no separation between you and nature. EVERYTHING is working together, perfectly. Absolutely perfectly. It's all about the moment. Nothing else exists.
It was a feeling that I recognized. I knew. It was that feeling that you get when you are doing what you are meant to be. It was the feeling I get when I'm speaking to an audience and I get the connection right. It is a feeling I live for.
For Christmas, last week, I got a surfboard. It's old and bashed-up, the nose has been fixed, and there are slight dents from someone else's feet, it has seen slightly more than its fair share of wipe-outs.
It will probably never ride a wave again, but it will get grinned at everyday. Everytime I look over at it, I remember that feeling of total oneness, of competely being in that moment and I remember who I am, who I am meant to be.
I have a friend here who calls me 'surfer chick' when he wants me to smile, he has no idea how much it means to me, how big those waves are.
Find your wave, you don't have to venture onto a surfboard to learn this, just BE YOU, Be completely YOU. It's the secret to life.


